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What is raw silk fabric: the difference between silk and raw silk

November 26, 2020

Silk is the most luxurious fabric that we can think of and despite various cheaper alternatives coming up on the market, nothing beats the real thing. The silk noil and raw silk are often used interchangeably to refer to silk fabric with linen-like plain weave and slightly nubby texture. I wanted to find out more in order to understand the difference. 

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The Best Chanel-Style Sewing Patterns

November 06, 2020

Whether you are an absolute beginner, a hobby seamstress with little experience, or an experienced seamstress, the success of a project often depends on choosing a good pattern. Which sewing pattern is the best if you want to create a DIY Chanel jacket? We will help with a step-by-step guide.

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All About Buttons

October 20, 2020

Fashion designers don’t think about buttons as simple closures and unusual novelty buttons are in high demand to draw attention to the garment or bring a little oomph to a simple design. Online shopping opened a world of rare baubles that you would never find at the local Fabricland. In this article, I will look at how the buttons evolved throughout history and the current outlook of this important fashion item.

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What the Eyes Can’t See: Facing, Interfacing, Underlining, Lining

September 23, 2020

The hallmark of bespoke sewing is excellent fit and finish. Inside construction details, like correct underlining, lining and interfacing, are all parts of that. If you are just starting in sewing, you may overlook these important details or think that since no one can see them, they don’t matter. Nothing could be further from the truth. They play a crucial role in the look and feel of the finished garment. Let me explain the differences between these materials, their uses and little tips from the haute couture masters of the past that can teach even old dogs like me new tricks.

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Vintage Patterns Sewing: Problems and Tips

September 13, 2020

Vintage sewing patterns are very popular. Not only because their value is high (especially when they are collector's items!) but mainly because many seamstresses also consider it as a sport to actually make clothes from the vintage sewing patterns. They make the clothes to wear themselves or for Cosplay and LARP events. But there are some common problems and we have tips to avoid them.

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What Is Fil Coupe Fabric?

August 31, 2020

Fil coupé means "cut threads" in English and it is a type of jacquard weaving technique which involves an extra step of cutting the weft thread on the back of the fabric. Jacquard weaving means, of course, that it is computerized patterned weaving. The fabric is a plain-woven background with some special effect pattern design. After the jacquard weaving is completed, the weft threads of the patterned designs are cut to make the fabric lighter and/or to create a special effect.

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The Magic of Upcycling: From Rugs to Riches

August 25, 2020

I inherited this rug from my Grandmother who had a trunk full of these. I don’t know what material they were made from, but they feel very soft as if they were made from natural fabrics. This is an heirloom work of the old traditional weaver. I have one such rug in my bathroom, and it’s so pleasant to walk on.

I liked the texture and colour combinations of this rug and I always wanted to make something interesting out of it. And so I decided to make a summer jacket without a lining from this rug that looks as if it got bleached in the bright July sun.

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How to Make a Crinoline: Step-by-Step Instructions

August 17, 2020

A crinoline is a kind of underskirt construction that allows a skirt to be worn wide, very wide and extremely wide. In the 19th century, they were an important part of everyday clothing. Today they are made for costumes for movies, musicals and events such as the Fantasy Fair. However, for Cosplay, they are becoming increasingly popular. And don't forget the Gothic and Steampunk!

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13 Reasons Why You Should Create Your Own Chanel-Style Jacket

August 03, 2020

Why do we love the French Chanel jacket so much? Why do we want to know about the construction, the sewing techniques, the history and above all: how are we able to manage to make one on our own? A lot of reasons, not just because…. Our guest blogger and an expert in sewing Chanel-style jackets reveals 13 reasons why you should create your own luxurious Chanel inspired jacket.

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What Is Jacquard? The Art of Patterned Weaving

July 27, 2020

We often think of jacquard as a pattern woven on silk. The term jacquard actually refers to the automated weaving or knitting process and the type of woven or knitted patterned fabric produced as a result. This story traces the origins of jacquard weaving and explains this very beautiful textile art.

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How to sew shank buttons using haute couture techniques

July 21, 2020

The haute couture method of sewing buttons involves forming a rigid shank which keeps the button away from the fabric. The button should lie flat on top of the buttonhole without puckering or looking loose. Before you attach the buttons, you need to finish all buttonholes and mark the location of the buttons with a tracing thread.

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How to Sew a Chanel-Inspired Jacket: a Step-By-Step Guide

July 13, 2020

Almost every woman on earth dreams of having a Chanel jacket. A Chanel jacket is pure haute couture: sophisticated, perfectly fitting, timeless classic and very, very expensive. Sewing a Chanel-inspired jacket yourself is like sewing a wedding dress. A long process and you need to have a lot of sewing experience.  But it should not be a dream. It is possible and we will help you!

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A Guide to Vintage Patterns Sewing for Beginners

July 09, 2020

So you purchased your very first vintage pattern and you are excited to get started and make that unique piece that is going to wow your friends and colleagues. At this point, you should take a deep breath and stop for a moment. I put together a few important tips on how to start sewing with vintage patterns so you can avoid the mistakes that I made.

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Haute Couture Techniques to Attach Facings in Couture Garments

July 08, 2020

Facings are used to finish the raw edges of neckline, armscyes, sleeves, pockets, etc.  They literally “face” that part of the garment. When you design a garment, part of your planning includes the closures and the finishing you will use.  If you don’t have a collar or a cuff in your design, for example, then facing serves as an elegant finishing to the raw edges of your creation. 

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Tips On Sewing Silk Fabric

July 01, 2020

Silk is a very beautiful and expensive fiber and fabrics made from it, such as chiffon, georgette, crepe de chine, fine atlas silk and others, are difficult to cut and sew. I will reveal some dressmaking tips and tricks which will help you to overcome these difficulties.

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Linen: the Sustainable Fabric Choice

June 18, 2020

With such an abundance of polyester and cotton fabrics available everywhere, it’s easy to overlook the oldest fabric in the world, the humble and noble linen. But it wasn’t so humble in ancient Egypt and up to the First World War when linen had a very prominent place in the fashion world. Because it is so absorbent, silky and cool against the skin, and at the same time extremely durable, it was the best choice for undergarments and clothing for hot and humid weather. In ancient Egypt, linen was considered a symbol of light and purity. 

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What Is Ruching: Fabric Gathers Explained

June 06, 2020

Ruching is making gathers in the fabric piece before sewing it into a garment. The most common use of this technique is in full skirts or sleeve caps and decorative details on garments.

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Sewing Shortcuts: Turning Perfect Corners Using Stencils

June 04, 2020

If you have great eye-seam allowance coordination, you are very lucky, but for the rest of us, making sure that you stitch the precise 5/8” could be a challenge, particularly when it comes to sewing around the corners. One wrong millimetre and the entire piece would look asymmetrical. Let me show you my trick for turning perfect corners on collars, belts, pockets and anything you like.

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