Haute Couture Techniques to Attach Facings in Couture Garments

How to attach facings to garments on Baudekin Studio

Facings are used to finish the raw edges of neckline, armscyes, sleeves, pockets, etc.  They literally “face” that part of the garment. When you design a garment, part of your planning includes the closures and the finishing you will use.  If you don’t have a collar or a cuff in your design, for example, then facing serves as an elegant finishing to the raw edges of your creation. To achieve a sophisticated look, use these haute couture techniques to apply the facings.

Step 1 – Cut the facing

A facing is just a duplicate of the part of the garment it faces. It's easier to see it when you layout these patterns next to each other.

Facings pattern

The easiest way to cut the facing of the neckline is to trace the neckline pattern. Apply the facing pattern over the garment pattern, and you will see that they are actually duplicates of each other.

Step 2 - Prepare the facing:

Stitch the ends of the facing at the seam allowance.  Press the seam open. Stitch the lower edge of facing ¼” from the un-notched edge. Trim the edge to 1/8”. Overcast. Overcasting the raw edges produces the most subtle and sophisticated effect because there is less bulk showing on the right side of the garment.

Step 3 – Attach facing to the garment

Pin facing to the garment right sides together matching all the markings and notches.

Attaching facings to garment

Stitch on your machine. Trim the seams as follows: trim 1/4” on both seam edges, and trim a further 1/8” on the seam closest to the body. The idea is to reduce the bulk as much as possible and to minimize the edges showing through the fabric after pressing. So, the longest edge will be on the outside of the garment to minimize the bulk. If the fabric you are using is very thin or if it frays a lot, you can just trim both seams to ¼”.

Trimming facings

Step 4 - Turn the facing

Turn the facing to inside. Press.  Baste the seamed edge to make sure that facing lies flat against the garment. Blind-stitch the facing to the underlining. If you are not using the underlining, you need to slip-stitch the facing to the garment making sure to pick only one thread on the garment so your stitching doesn’t show on the right side.

Attached facing to garment

 





Also in Couture Sewing Blog

Chanel suit in classic white tweed with black trim
Chanel Jacket Challenge: Cutting and Quilting Tips

Just until a few years ago, I never even dreamed of making a Chanel style jacket. I didn’t dare to think that my sewing skills were that good. But after making a few vintage Givenchy and Dior garments, I was inspired. And so, ladies and gentlemen, I am now in the process of making my very first Chanel jacket. To get a touch of courage, I acquired great books about haute couture sewing, and particularly the books about the famous Mademoiselle Chanel. It was important to me to get the spirit of Coco Chanel in my first jacket.

Continue Reading

What is cotton fabric
What Is Cotton Fabric

Cotton fabric is the king of affordable textiles and the beloved child of designers. It feels comfortable in all seasons, easy to sew, and widely available. There is some confusion about which fabric is best, which cotton can be used for shirts, dresses and even face masks. I wanted to dive into this topic and get the answers for you.

Continue Reading

blue shirt hand made
Learn to Sew: Your Questions Answered

In this article, I answer your most popular questions about learning to sew, like what age should you start sewing, can I teach myself to sew, can I learn to sew online, what should I sew as a beginner, can I sew my own clothes, how do I start learning to sew, how long does it take to learn to sew, is sewing an expensive hobby and others.

Continue Reading