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by Elena Tran
Beautiful Chanel-inspired jackets have recognizable details which elevate them to the level of haute couture, like the famous Chanel patch pockets. If you've never made couture patch pockets for tweed jackets, the construction is a bit different from regular patch pockets. As usual, I am including the video and my notes about the process.
The trickiest part about construction is matching the pattern of the patch pockets to the front piece. There are some tips and tricks that you can use for that, but the most important thing is you need to have extra fabric to play around with your stripes and checks. I usually allow one morning of my day just to lay out the fabric to match the pattern. You need to take seam allowance into consideration when planning how to cut the fabric for your pockets.
Once your pockets are cut, you need to transfer the markings and attach a piece of pre-shrunk seam binding along the foldline to stabilize the pocket edge. Turn and press seam allowances at lower edge, then at the sides and lastly, at the upper edge of the pockets.
When it comes to attaching the trim, you can attach it before or after folding the seam allowances. In this video, I am attaching the trim after the sides are turned and pressed. Why did I do that? Because turning and pressing after the trim will be difficult if not impossible. It all depends on the trim that you are using.
The rest of the pocket construction is pretty simple. Baste all around the folded edges of the pocket to keep the seam allowances in place. Proceed with using catch-stitches to stitch around the pocket. Blind stitch the sides of upper edges to the pocket to make everything look attractive.
Wrong sides together, place lining over the pocket and baste in the center of the pocket with diagonal stitches. Fold under the raw edges of lining, baste and sew permanently with fell stitches.
And, finally, pin the pockets to the jacket at marked locations. Baste the pockets and make sure they are symmetrical. Attach the patch pockets by hand with blind stitches or any type of invisible stitches. Don't catch the lining of the jacket.